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- <text id=90TT0136>
- <title>
- Jan. 15, 1990: A Taste Of Thistle
- </title>
- <history>
- TIME--The Weekly Newsmagazine--1990
- Jan. 15, 1990 Antarctica
- </history>
- <article>
- <source>Time Magazine</source>
- <hdr>
- BUSINESS, Page 48
- A Taste Of Thistle
- </hdr>
- <body>
- <p>Trendy sip: single-malt Scotch
- </p>
- <p> There are two things a Highlander likes naked, goes an old
- Scottish saying, and one of them is malt whisky. Of late, the
- Kiltie's distilled delight has become an international
- connoisseur's joy. After several lackluster years, sales of
- Scotch worldwide (although not in the U.S.) are on the rise,
- led by the rare, distinctive whiskies known as single malts.
- The malts constitute only about 3.5% of all Scotch sales, but
- their dollar-value share of the market is twice that because of
- their relatively high price tags. Overall, sales have jumped
- from 1 million cases in 1980 to more than 2.6 million last
- year, with a fourth of that volume going to the U.S.
- </p>
- <p> Single malts are the original Scotch whiskies. They are made
- from malted barley in copper-domed pot stills at 101
- distilleries scattered throughout Scotland and are aged for at
- least four years in used sherry or bourbon casks. When combined
- with cheaper, less flavorsome grain whiskies, they become the
- blends that most consumers think of as Scotch. A quality brand,
- like Chivas Regal, may be 65% malt, with whiskies chosen from
- 40 different distilleries.
- </p>
- <p> Most single malts are sold only to the blenders, but 70
- distilleries bottle small amounts for sale to a growing body
- of purists who drink them neat or with a bit of water, or like
- brandy in postprandial snifters. Single malts are as different
- from one another as Burgundy wines are from Bordeaux: a soft,
- sweetish Lowland malt like Auchentoshan is a wholly different
- taste experience from Laphroaig, one of the tangy, medicinal
- whiskies produced on the isle of Islay (pronounced EYE-la).
- Part of the appeal of these whiskies, in fact, is their craggy
- names. Once you've learned how to pronounce it, who can resist
- ordering a dram of Bunnahabhain? (Try Bu-na-HA-ven.)
- Worldwide, the single-malt sales leader is Glenfiddich, owned
- by William Grant & Sons, but in the U.S. it runs a distant
- second to the Glenlivet, produced by Scotland's oldest licensed
- distillery (1824) and a shrewd purchase by Seagram's in 1977.
- </p>
- <p> A survey by the Scotch Whisky Information Center in the U.S.
- concluded that single-malt fanciers are younger, more affluent
- and better educated than drinkers of blended Scotch. "People
- may be drinking less," says Peter Smith, the center's director,
- "but they are savoring more." Connoisseurs may eventually have
- more malts to savor. Several "silent" (mothballed) distilleries
- have lately sprung back to life. And next month Schenley
- Affiliated Brands, an American subsidiary of Britain's United
- Distillers (Guinness), takes over U.S. distribution of six
- U.D.(G.)-owned malts. As a quick guide to the range of malt
- tastes, Schenley will sell them not just in 750-ml bottles but
- also in a six-pack of miniatures, complete with tasting notes.
- </p>
- <p>By John Elson.
- </p>
-
- </body>
- </article>
- </text>
-
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